Out With The Old

And in with...well, the old, but new to me.

I sold my KZ1000 Police bike to a fine gentleman who I believe will appreciate it. The primary reasons I sold the bike is that is was to wide for splitting lanes in SF, to wide too park in my backyard and only has one seat, so no passengers.


Fortuitously, last week Lisa Duke (of the CCSF motorcycle department) requested that I buy a shop bike in an effort to reduce the amount of bike in the shop. So I did. It's a 1992 Suzuki GSX-F 750 (aka the Katana). For you that are interested in such things, it's the same engine as the GSX-R (pronounced Gixer), a bike renowned for street racing and injuring inexperience newb's, but with a different body configuration and is, in any case, my first Suzuki. The bike ran when it was dropped off at the class so I have some optimism about getting it in running order before class is out (two weeks!).

It looks almost nothing like the picture below. I mean there are reasons bikes are donated to the class and 'too pretty' isn't one of them.


This will be the fifth bike I've owned in 2006. I think I'm going to hang on to it and take a break from the whole motorcycle repair thing a a while.

Motorcycle Driving Test for CA

This is pulled from a post I on did on the CL Motocycle Forum a while back:

Pardon the excess detail but I wanted to get everything down before I forgot anything.

So I just took the test and some of you on this forum have voiced questions about what is on the test let me elucidate the process for you.

I went in to the driving test window at the DMV and provided my motorcycle permit, proof of insurance and current registration. From there I was given a slip and directed outside to the parking lot. There are three lanes and any one of which I was supposed to park in and wait for the examiner. Lucky for me I was only behind one person (who was also taking, but failing, the motorcycle driving test).

The examiner takes the papers that were handed to me inside (my motorcycle permit, proof of insurance, current registration and cover sheet from the DMV) and checks to make sure I am me, and the bike is the correct bike (VIN and all).

Next, six questions. Identify the following items on my bike...I really shouldn’t be telling you guys this because if there are any potential test-takers out there, and they can’t pass this portion, they (and potentially, we) are in for a world of hurt. Anyway, identify the following items on my bike.

1) Starter (they mean the starter button)
2) Choke (if it has one)
3) Clutch
4) Throttle
5) Gear Shift
6) Brakes (front and back levers)

They also asked me to turn on the left and right indicators and to use the horn (nothing about brake lights which was surprising, maybe they mix it up or he forgot).


Next the riding portion. The examiner directed me to ride over to the area I was to be tested in.



The space between the lines is about 2ft. and the dots are cones about 10-15 ft from each other. The circle is about 30 ft in diameter.















On the first test I had to zigzag through the cones till I got to the circle, enter the circle and go around twice (direction doesn’t matter) and then come back zigzagging through the cones again.











On the second test I had to ride down between the lanes ‘slowly’ (I have no idea how slow he meant) and enter the circle in the opposite direction I entered in the last test, go around inside the circles twice and then exit using the other lane to come back.







During both of these test I was informed that if I put my foot down I would fail IMMEDIATELY. Ditto if my front tire exits any of the lanes (i.e. the path formed by the concentric circles or the path formed by the parallel lines). He didn’t say anything about the rear tire, maybe there is more leeway there. If I failed at any point I don’t move on to the next test and must make a new appointment. No second tries, and no practicing (though I suspect after hours you might be able to sneak in).

The final test was just to start the bike at one end of the parking lot and accelerate while up-shifting, to the other end of the lot.

After that the examiner gave me a slip, I went back inside to the queue for test takes (which is nearly always empty). They gave me a form to sign which is a temporary license good for two months. The regular license should arrive in 2-4 weeks.

A few observations.

The guy in front of me taking the test was on some new, shiny, larger sport bike. He had a VERY hard time of it. He didn’t make it past the first set of zigzags before he put his foot down. Ditto several times around the loop. Heavy bike = bad. Don’t know if using a sport bike was better or worse.

I had a ’84 gpz550 that I’ve been riding forever and feel very comfortable on and it still felt like a bear to get around those cones and stay in that circle at low speeds. Part of the trouble is that I couldn’t see the front tire so I wasn’t sure exactly where I was. As many others have suggested, borrow the smallest bike you can find for the test.

I did the whole thing in first gear. I’m not sure I could pull it off in second.

That previous posting on revving engines totally worked. I was having trouble on the second trip around the circle and upped the RPMs and like magic it seemed more stable.

As always I was dealt with by competent but indifferent staff, which is fine by me, I’d rather have that then incompetent and friendly staff.

As always if you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact me.

SOLD!

I recently sold two of my bikes, a Kawasaki GPZ550 from Sony’s old roommate Eric (top) and a 85 Honda VF700 Interceptor purchased from Dave’s down stairs neighbor.

These two bikes represent the second and third bikes I’ve owned. My first was a old Honda 250 cruiser but that was so long ago and for such a brief period of time I have neither pictures nor recollection of the exact model. The GPZ550 is the first and only bike I ever went down on (knock on wood) and the Interceptor is the first motorcycle I bought in non running condition and brought back to life.

I now have a KZ1000P and a Aprilia Scarabeo 50 scooter. My next semester of motorcycle mechanics classes start on Thurs and I just posted an ad on CL for another broke down bike to work on. As a bonus Amanda will be joining me to work on her new 1969 Honda CM90 cub.

New Bikers Guide To Riding and Buying

Hello and welcome. This guide is designed for you, the new rider. You can read through the guide from start to finish or skip to one of the three sections below. Feel free to ask any questions you have in the comments section below or on the Craigslist Motorcycle Forum.

(Getting a License or Permit | Choosing Gear | Selecting Your Ride)

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So You Want To Ride a Motorcycle (Back to Top)

The first thing you are going to need to do is to get authorization from your state to ride. There are two ways of doing this;

• Option #1:

The best way of doing this is to attend a motorcycle safety course approved by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (1-877-RIDE-411). A MSF approved course provides you with five hours of classroom instruction and ten hours of practical riding in a controlled, off-street environment. Motorcycles and helmets for use in the course are included in your course fee.

There are several positive reasons to do this. First, attendance in the course grants you a motorcycle endorsement on your driver’s license once you pass the written test at your local DMV or RMV. Second, riders who have attended a safety course are significantly less likely to have an accident. Third, most insurance companies will reduce your insurance payments up to 15% every year for having attended a MSF approved course. This can easily pay off financially if you intend to ride for more than a few years. It is the recommended method of acquiring a motorcycle driver’s license.

The process is this. Sign up for the course. Attend the course. Get the slip from the MSF instructor showing that you passed the course. Go to the DMV or RMV and show them the paper slip. Pass the written DMV test. Walk out with DMV license.

• Option #2

The second alternative is to acquire a permit to ride a motorcycle at your local RMV or DMV. In California, this requires that you pass the written portion of the motorcycle driver’s test. Once you do so, the permit allows you to ride during daylight hours only and restricts you from riding with passengers or on the freeway at any time. It is highly recommended that you pick up a motorcycle rider’s handbook from the DMV or RMV and read it cover to cover before taking your test.

To graduate from a permit to a license, you must pass a skills test at the DMV, during which you will need to demonstrate proper safety and handling skills while riding on an enclosed course. It is recommended that you make an online appointment before you go in order to cut down on the time in line at the DMV. Again, taking the MSF course allows you to skip this second step while at the same time reducing your insurance costs, giving you hours of practical motorcycle riding experience while riding on someone else’s bike and coaches you on how to be a safer rider.

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What to Wear? (Back to Top)

• Step One: Protect Yer Noggin

While laws vary from state to state with regards to the mandatory use of helmets, it is recommended that all riders use helmets as the minimum level of protection when riding a motorcycle. Remember, someone loves that silly head of yours, even if it isn’t you.

There is much debate, both within the motorcycle enthusiast community and among motorcycle manufacturers domestically and internationally, with regard to what is the ‘safest’ helmet. To read more on the details of the debate, check the article “Motorcycle Helmet Performance: Blowing the Lid Off” by Motorcyclist Magazine.

Ultimately, it is my opinion that a Department of Transportation (DOT) approved helmet provides an appropriate level of protection for all riders. Since this is a requirement for all helmets sold in the US, you will be well served in terms of safety with nearly any selection provided in a shop.

Ultimately the best helmet is one that fits well. Visit a local motorcycle shop and try several helmets on. At this point, don’t bother looking at the price tags. The ideal helmet fits snugly on your head and has very limited motion as you swing your head right from left and back and forth. Wear each helmet for a few minutes to get a feel for it. Does it press uncomfortably on your forehead or behind your ears? If you don’t find anything comfortable, go to another shop. It is not unusual to have to visit two or three shops until you find the right helmet for you. Now pick the top two or three helmets you like and compare prices and features. A more expensive helmet is not safer, since all helmets must meet DOT safety guidelines. Generally, the higher cost reflects reduced weight and more features (better venting systems, anti-fogging visors, etc.). The price of helmets can vary enormously, from $79.95 to over $1000.00. It is very realistic to find a good helmet that fits you comfortably in a price range from $100 to $300. Again, don’t let the price of a helmet make you feel that your safety is being compromised. Purchase the helmet you prefer.

Note: It is highly recommend that you NOT purchase a used helmet. The material that protects you in a crash is the lining inside the helmet. During an impact, that material deforms to take up the force of the impact, thus preventing or reducing head injury. To determine whether a helmet has been in such an impact, an x-ray is required to view if the lining has collapsed -- a visual inspection will not suffice. If the lining is damaged from a crash, the safety of the helmet is compromised. Because of this, even if a used helmet does fit comfortably, which is rare, there is no guarantee it will protect your head in an accident. Also note that the interior lining degrades when exposed to UV light, solvents, and even sweat. It is recommended that you replace it a minimum of every five years.

• One More Thing, Good Looking

There is also some debate about full face or 3/4 face (a.k.a. open face) helmets. Nearly 35% of helmet impacts involve the rider falling on the chin area. Even a fall from a standing position to your chin can involve serious injuries. At high speeds on road surfaces, it can be gruesome. If you are good looking, protect that chin, and if you aren’t, do us a favor and hide it (for safety’s sake).

• Step Two: Protect Your Other Bits

Even more so than helmets, there is a debate about what is appropriate external gear. Rather than get into details, it is this rider’s recommendation that you purchase motorcycle gloves, a jacket (preferably with a liner that can be removed in summer) and pants (or a full one piece suit), and heavy-duty boots. All should fit snug and not flap in the wind. Unlike helmets, used gear in good condition can afford good protection. Different materials reflect different philosophies with regards to safety, comfort, and price. Do some research and purchase those items you feel will best protect you. Remember that purchasing gear is an intrinsic, not optional, cost of riding a motorcycle. You either dress for the ride, or you dress for the crash.

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Finally, Your Ride (Back to Top)

It is nearly every new rider’s instinct to get something new and shiny and expensive. You are not unique in this. And since I’ve been a killjoy so far, I find no reason to change my tune.

The first thing I’d like to stress is that your first bike is to learn on, not to ride forever. You want a bike that you will grow out of, not a bike that you will need to grow into.

You should purchase your first bike with the understanding that you will be trading up to something newer, shinier, and more expensive in the next year or so. For your first bike, you want something that is appropriate to your level of experience and something that won’t either take you to the cleaners or make you cry when you drop it.

First, size. Bikes are generally divided by size and type (Sport, Standard, Cruisers, etc.). Size refers to engine size and is measured in cc’s (cubic centimeters of engine displacement).

For a new rider, the size of the engine should reflect your experience, and most rider’s recommend a bike in the range of 250cc to 600cc depending on your size. A smaller, lighter bike is more maneuverable and easier to handle than a larger bike.

Maybe this is just the inner cheapskate in me, but the second recommendation is that you buy a cheaper used bike in good working order. The reason for this is because as a new rider you are very likely to drop the bike. Dropping a bike with lots of chrome or plastic can easily cost hundreds of dollars to replace. You might be better served with an older beginner bike that you will feel less upset about when you forget to put down the kickstand and it falls over. You can find many such motorcycles advertised in the classifieds sections on Craigslist or other publications. In a year, or when you feel comfortable, you can then sell that motorcycle right back into the used market to the next beginner with little or no financial loss and put that money into your new, shiny, expensive bike.

As a last point on motorcycle selection, it is worth noting that insurance coverage for motorcycles varies on many factors (having passed an MSF course, age of the rider, etc.) but is heavily influenced by the type of bike being ridden, with sport bikes being the most expensive to insure. It may be worth calling your insurance company and getting a quote on the bike you are interested in. It is not unusual to spend $800 to purchase a used sport bike only to turn around and spend nearly that much to insure it per year.

• Okay, Fine, A List

Yes, yes, all of that information above was very enlightening, but you actually want a list of bikes. Well, here you go, but please remember list this is not definitive. There have been thousands of different bikes produced over the last thirty or forty years out there that would fit the above guidelines. These are just ten bikes some folks on the Craigslist motorcycle forum came up with over the course of one day. If you find a bike you like that isn’t on this list but still fulfills most of the guidelines set above, go for it.

• Honda Nighthawk 250, 550 or 600
• Honda Rebel 250
• Honda Shadow VLX 600
• Honda VTR 250
• Kawasaki Ninja 250
• Kawasaki Ninja EX500
• Suzuki GS500
• Suzuki GZ250
• Yamaha Virago 250
• Yamaha XT225

Again, don't let the engine size fool you, anyone of these picks will do at least 90MPH holding someone over 200lbs, and really how often are you going to go over 90MPH on a highway?

• All Done

That is it. If you have any questions regarding this or have any other motorcycle related questions, please feel free to post them here or on the Craigslist Motorcycle Forums, where we all are eager to answer your questions. Ride Safe!

What's Up Next

I have been creating posts and them not finishing then off which is lame. Today I decided to pump them all out seeing how I’ve finished class and signed up for class next semester (Auto 123 - Body Repair and Refinishing and Moto 72 - General Service and Repair)

Moto 72 is the next motorcycle class for the certificate and I’m going to see if I can use the auto body class to work on the fenders and gas tanks on my motorcycles. I'm also going to try to slip into a Biology seminar called The Biology of Point Reyes. It's one weekend long and is mostly and excuse for me and the lass to head out to a bed and breakfast for a weekend.

In any case, there should be a couple post you haven't read below. Don't expect much in here till the end of January, when class picks back up.

Another Semester, Another Bike Running

The big deal about the last day of class is that you have to have your bikes out of the Cage and off campus by the end of class. I wasn't sweating it though because I had been able to get the interceptor started last week and expected the same result today.

So you can imagine my dismay at the fact that I couldn't get it started again. I tired all the tricks that Ken had showed me to no avail. After about an hour of zero results, and with panic setting in, this grizzled old dude walks by and asks what the problem is. I explain I had had it running last week but now it is doing the same old thing, turning over but not catching. And he asks the first question anyone should ask when a bike won't start, "is the gas on?"

See, on a motorcycle, for reasons still not adequately explained to me, there is a switch on the gas tank that turn them on, off and to the reserve tank. The reserve tank is effectively that light that comes on in cars telling you that the car is almost out of gas. On a motorcycle you run till the bike dies, flip the switch to reserve and get your tail to a gas station (you usually have a gallon or two at that point). This is a really fun trick on a freeway as you are splitting lanes trying to pass semis on either side of you. Off has been a mystery to me, I suspect it is probably there to make taking off a gas tank less of a fuel splattering exercise. I dunno. In any case, a bike will not run, or maybe only run for a minute with the switch in the off position. Mine was in the off position. I turned it on, cranked it a couple of times and she roared back to life.

Great, it was running, I had all my gear packed and said my goodbyes, then I noticed the rain. Pouring rain, Portland rain, rain that you can feel in you bones isn't going to stop for the next week.

The plan had been I'd ride the GPZ home (the bike I had ridden to class) and Jackie would drop me back off at class to pick up the Interceptor. Now I would be taking two trips through the poring rain, something I had vowed I would never do. I was thinking of maybe just parking the interceptor in the parking lot and picking it up later in the evening in case the rain broke for a bit. Dave Miller recommended against it. He pointed out that campus was located in a very poor neighborhood with lots of homeless people, that a quarter mile away there was a scrap metal yard that bought metal for recycling and lastly, that my former piece of scrap metal could easily be rolled there.

To compound all my problems I had grabbed a new pair of gloves that I had bought at a garage sale that, on the way to school, I realized were way to small for my hands and which preventing me from really riding safely (e.g. being able to reach the breaks, etc.) So I mounted the GPZ in the pouring frigid rain and began my ride home. On the freeway it takes about ten minutes. However, while I was now breaking my vow to never ride in the rain there was no way I was getting on the freeway. I instead took the side roads. It took a half hour. By the time I got to Jackie's I couldn't feel my fingers enough to take off my helmet strap. I walked into the bathroom and filled the sink with what I hoped wasn't scalding water and just massaged my hands in there. I had to replace the water three times because my hands were cooling the water down room temperature. It took five minutes before the burning started and ten more before it quit.

After pickup my gloves we set off to pick up the interceptor. Riding back home on the interceptor I determined that the front and rear breaks need A) new break pads and B) had to have the break cylinders rebuilt. But I made it home and all is well.

Also for any of you that have ridden in the rain, what is the deal with all the water funneling down to you crotch. It is so odd. You take off all you water proof gear and the crotch on you pants is just totally wet even if the rest of you is dry. It is bewildering and really difficult to explain to someone believably.

An Ode to Ken(ji?)

In the last week of class I had managed to unbreak everything I had broken on the interceptor. I had also replaced all the fluids, filters, spark plugs, battery, etc. All was as it should be. Except when I pressed the START but, start it would not. Lots of click-click but no start. Same problem always. Then up walks Ken. You could hear the birds quiet down and the wind pick up for just a moment. Dark clouds began to form. "What seems to be the problem he whispered" eyeing the unsuspecting motorcycle with disgust. "It won't start" I replied plaintively. "Won't start? Let's see."

He took out the fuel filter and sprayed Carburetor cleaner in the intake port. Carb cleaner is like a commercial form of a Thermobaric weapon and the intake port is where the engine gets the air it is going to mix with gas. The mixture is then ignited by a spark plug.

By replacing the air in the normal mix with Carburetor cleaner what I imaged Ken had done was set the stage for a nice sized explosion, with the engine forming large chunks of shrapnel and myself supplied as the Darwin award recipient. "Hit START" Ken said. I reflected on my life, reflected on that one day when I should have let lust over power reason, took a deep breath and hit the button as I gunned the throttle. VRRRROOOOMMMMMMM!!! sez the engine. It is running loud an nasty but it is running. I was jubilant! The universe is Just! All is well in the world!

And then the engine dies and I was back in the emotional void that is my life.

Ken said, "Let me see a [spark] plug". "They are brand new", I tried to explain. His cold, dead eyes say no more. I looked down and muttered, "but they are brand new..." as grabed my tools and took one out. He looked them over and said, "Anti-Seize", handed it back to me and disappears as mysteriously as he appeared (and by 'disappeared' I of course mean walked to the other side of the room).

What had happened was, in my zeal to replace the spark plugs, I had smeared anti-seize grease all over the contact points of the spark plugs. Anti-seize is applied to the thread of a bolt to make sure that they don't lock in place, a serious problem with spark plugs as they heat an cool frequently. The contact points are where the spark forms on the spark plug. Thus fouled (ie, coated in anti-seize) they were only sparking erratically, not enough to cause the normal fuel-air mixture to ignite. Ken having added carb cleaner (very volatile and combustible) to the air supply, allowed the plugs to ignite the mixture and burn, thus running the motor. As the carb cleaner burnt off the engine returned to trying to burn air and fuel, failed and shut down.

After cleaning the spark plugs, the bike started up just fine, though a bit smoky. Actually much more that a bit. It was smoking so much that after a minute I started looking for fire. I cut the engine and asked Dave Miller if that was supposed to happen. He said for a bike that has been sitting it is pretty normal. The heat from the engine is burning off all the grease and oil that has built up externally on the bike. So I started it up and began to panic again and think, yeah maybe it is supposed to smoke a little but it was getting a little out of control. After checking with some of the older folks who concurred with Dave I took the bike outside so as not to pollute the inside of the building. After about half an hour all the grease burned off and it ran with no smoke.

All looks well for taking the bike how on the last day of class.

One Bolt

One bolt.

Problem: Rust inside the tank.

Options: A) replace or repair tank B) Mickey Mouse something until A) could be completed

Selection: B)

That pretty much involves replacing the fuel filter with a shiny new one and getting as much rust as feasible out of the tank. This involves filling it with gas, throwing some bolts in it and then shaking the living crap out of it. The bolts both dislodge the rust and, according to Lisa Duke, bind the rust to them to some degree. Since the tank already had old gas in it ("Hey Lisa how do you know if gas has gone bad", "You can smell it" "Yeah but what does it smell like if it is bad?", "Just smell it," "OMG what the hell is that crap" *retch, retch, retch* "Bad gas...what does OMG stand for?") I just added bolts and shook the living crap out of it, and then drained the gas out of it. Then there was the issue of the ten large bolts in the tank which would not shake out. Apparently in most old tanks the shape of the hole where you put the gas in would be not unlike a shape of a 2 liter bottle, thus turning the tank upside down would have lead to the bolts sliding out. Unfortunately the shape of that hole is engineered to prevent gas from sloshing out. Additionally it keeps bolts from easily exiting a gas tank. Rather than go into great detail, using a large magnet (Trevor you ain't never seen something like this) and a couple of small mechanics magnets (think a telescoping antenna with a magnet on the end) I managed to get all nine bolts out while inhaling vast quantities of gas vapors.

Lesson learned: Use option A) on newer gas tanks.

Other Peoples Bikes

This weekend I went down to LA to help my brother move do the family reunion thing. Since Sony was moving, I was helping out and was luckily tasked with riding his two motorcycles over to his new place. He has a ’87 Honda CB 1100 I think. I’m not sure. Apparently they only made that model for two years and it feels like a touring bike, with a very upright posture but oh man it was such a pleasure to ride. Totally smooth, great suspension, responsive. You could forget about the bike and just enjoy the scenery. I hope the Interceptor is as smooth. The other motorcycle was a Le Mans edition 850cc Moto Guzzi not unlike the one pictured below.



The Moto Guzzi was like flying a really old jet fighter, like before they had that whole aerodynamics thing down. Built as a racing bike for an large oval track the bike is very narrow. The handling leaves something to be desired but when you pull on the throttle you just go, go, go. Crazy fun. At idle it just sits there and rumbles from side to side. You can actually feel the pistons firing and the bike moving left to right in sync. Sony was saying they took the racing version of the bike, slapped some ligts on a few thousand and sold them to the public. I’ll be honest, I was a bit scared opening that bike up. Especially in tennis shoes and jeans.

What it made me realize is that this motorcycle thing, for me, may not be the passing fad I once suspected it was. So going back to the source I’d like to thank Big Eric for selling me his GPZ for such a reasonable price (did you ever even cash that check Eric?) for Sony for setting the deal up and keeping my thoughts on motorcycles through the years and lastly Dushan for teaching me to ride back on the motocross track in the dessert when I was twelve. Hrm, maybe it’s time for a dirt bike...

Briefly

Last week during class I had some time to burn while I waited for the JB Weld to bond, a whole day actually since it take JB Weld a day to dry, but since I was there I asked Lisa if there was something I could do. She was in a cleaning mood so that is what I did. Specifically I was to disassemble a few engines and strip them of some useful parts and trash the rest.

The point of this whole thing is that the insides of engines are truly pieces of artwork. The detailing, the clearances of fractions of an inch, distances so small that the only thing that can possibly move between them is fluids, well it is all just majestic. It amazes me to think 200 years ago people were creating swords by beating steal with a hammer on an anvil and now we can make machines with specs accurate to thousandths of an inch. That fact that we can even create these machines at all and that they are as cheap and ubiquitous as they are is as miraculous and beautiful as anything I can imagine.

And I dumped them into the recycling bin because the pistons were worn.

I'm Strong but Not Too Smart.

As you might recall, getting the carburetor out of the Interceptor proved much more difficult than I might have suspected and I managed to non-catastrophically break them. Since then I cleaned them, replaced the bolts I managed to lose...I'm going to digress real quick. I learned this super handy trick that probably everyone but me knows. Lets say you have a bolt and you need three more of the same size. Well if you are like me you can't just eyeball the bolt and know exactly what size it is. To find the right size bolt, just grab one of the bolts you didn't lose and take it to a hardware store. Sort through the nuts until you find a nut that fits around your bolt. Once you find that nut, go to the bolt section and find a bolt that fits in that nut. The bolt that fits will have the same size threading as the one you brought in with you. Digression over.

So I cleaned the carburetor replaced the bolts and tried to get the carbs back into the rubber boots that hold them in place. The same rubber boots that gave me so much trouble when trying to get the carbs off. I can go into length about what I tried but for the sake of sanity lets just say that lube, another guy from class and couple four foot 2X4's didn't do jack except, yes that's right, damage the plate that holds the carbs in place. A nice two inch crack right down the side. Plus of course we didn't get the carbs in.

Lisa said some JB Weld would work on the crack, and let me tell you JB Weld is like ultimate bonding agent. It comes in two tubes that you mix together. Within 24 hours it dries to provide a heat resistant bond that I firmly believe will out last roaches. It's ugly, ugly as sin really, but it'll work and it's at a spot where no one will ever have to see it again.

But that still didn't get my carbs on. That took Lisa Duke, a rubber mallet and about a minute and a half. Rather than using brute force, leverage and sweat. She just tapped gently all around the boot as I gently pressed the carbs into them. A tap here, a tap there and viola! They're in.

Every time I think am getting the hang of things I realize how much more I have to learn. This week, I'm planning to put some oil in theinterceptorr and see if it'll run. If so, then I'm buying a new chain, and radiator cap. I also need to adjust the carbs and if it seems feasible adjust the valves though I may wait on that to see how it runs.

Lisa Duke Was Right

When I first bought the Interceptor I bought a new battery and tried turning it on. At first I didn’t get lights or anything. After checking the fuses and just generally messing around, but doing nothing substantive, the lights came on. A little more messing around and I could get the solenoid to make a clicking noise. But the bike wouldn’t turn over. I played with it now and then but still to no avail. By the time I took the bike into class the battery wouldn’t hold a good charge (that is to say hold a charge up of 12+ Volts, you really want 12.6) despite repeated attempts to charge the battery. Even so, I explained to Lisa that I had had a new battery in their and the bike wouldn’t turn at all. She told me to get a new battery. I explained again that it had had a new battery and that it all my attempts previously hadn’t worked and maybe there was some other problem electrically between the battery and the starter. She was having none of it. She said you need a new battery before you start playing diagnostic doctor and refused to look at the bike until I did (In fairness I’m not even enrolled in the class so that is totally her prerogative). So I did get a new battery and on Saturday I put it in and hit the starter and what do you know? The starter turned over like warm kitten. I didn’t have the carbs in (and I am two bolts short, having stripped them getting the carbs disassembled, so I have to wait on that but I suspect once I get the carbs back in the bike will run. I can see that the carbs need adjusting visually and it’s going to need some more parts (fuel filter, oil filter, radiator cap, etc) but I believe that the engine is going to be running maybe tonight.

Incidentally, on the way to pick up bolts for the Carbs I drove by a &^!#ed up GPz550 on the road. I pulled over and checked it out and it looks like an ‘83 (which is the same year as mine) that has been sitting outside since ’84. The airbox and carbs are missing but I think there is a lot of salvage I could use off of it. The tank has no dents (unlike mine) and much less rust. Also the blickers and fuse box, I could use. I’m going to leave a note and see if I can pick it up as a parts bike...I feel the slow inexorable slide to becoming a grease monkey with a yard full of motorcycle parts.

Photos For Now

Some pictures and hopefully and update after Saturday. Apparently the battery I bought previously went bad/sucked ass so I'm getting a new one for class on Saturday. For now, a couple of pictures as the bike looks now.

Moto Classes

Incrementally someone emailed me and asked where and what classes I’m taking.

All the class are through San Francisco City College (the local community college also know as CCSF or simply City College around these parts). The classes are at the Evans campus in Bayview.

Last semester I took the Intro Motorcycle Maintenance Class (Moto 60) and this semester I’m taking General Service and Repair (Moto 72). I also show up for the Monday-Wednesday Moto 60 class being offered this semester to get some extra time in and to work on some projects for the motorcycle club (aka the Monkeywrenchers).

I highly recommend the program and encourage anyone with any interest to contact me.

Not So Bad After All

I talked to Dave (the teach) during class about my broken carb housing and he said not to worry about it and not to even bother with glue. All the other bolts should hold it in place just like Lisa said (sorry to doubt you Lisa). So I open it up and cleaned out all the jets, needles etc. and really, it was all pretty clean. There was one that was a little sticky but all in all it probably wasn't necessary, which is fine. I managed to get some carb experience under my belt and it's good to know that the carbs won't be any issue in the future. One more potential problem alleviated.

I also got to think about my battery. I've been leaving it on the trickle charger days at a time between classes and while that shouldn't matter maybe it does. I'm going to take it home on Monday and then Tues at lunch I'm going to start charging it, by time for class at 6:30 it should be fully charged and ready to go, if not I know it's the battery and not the charging method and can just worry about getting a new one.

And that is where I'm at.

*!&@^#*!@&(*#&!*&)!^(!(#)*-*^!

I went by class last night only to find that my cheap ass battery is toast. It just won't hold a charge despite my having bought it less than six months ago. I don't know what is wrong with it, no one does, but it's crap so I'm out $50 and about a week of trying to get it to work. Now I need to order a new battery.

I decided that I might as well get to work on something since I had a few hours. Last week I had opened up the carbs case and they were sticking, so I decided to take them out. That way I could clean them on Saturday while I waited for a new battery.

I followed the instructions in the book and at the stage where it said "Now lift the carbs out being careful not to damage them" I had some trouble. See they wouldn't lift. I pulled and pulled and nothing, so I looked around to see if there was anything bolted on but there wasn’t. I pulled some more and still nothing. leaned in with all my strength and not a budge. More looking, more pulling to no avail. So I got a 2X4.

I know, I know, I know. I assumed that the rubber boots that were holding the carbs in place were just sticking and with a little leverage they would give. And they did! It really was just the rubber boots holding on! But despite that I still gave them a little to much force (though honestly I am at a total loss on how one is expected o get the carbs out without a 2X4). In any case, I cracked one of the metal parts that holds all four carbs together.

I don’t know how much it is going to cost to replace them but I think ‘a lot’ is probably the answer. Lisa saw my despair and busted out some optimism on me. She said that the part I broke wasn’t a pressure point and that we could maybe use some industrial glue to hold it together. Maybe some spot welding too. I hope so. A while back I promised to start only hobbies that were cost neutral (surfing) or that actually made money (vending) but somehow here I am with a hobby that, so far, is just costing me money.

Also I found two springs that came off the carbs. I have no idea where the go and really I couldn’t be bothered to figure it out then. Saturday is another day again.

I hope I can get this bike running.

Step Two Complete

This time from my yard (is it a yard if it is made of concrete?) to class.

Last Wednesday day a guy I met in class by the name of Frank called me to let me know that if I was available he could stop by with his truck to help move my Interceptor to class, a nice 6.3 mile jaunt. The first issue was that it seems that not only were both tires totally flat (and both of which will need replacing as they are mealy*) but the breaks seemed seized, which is to say locked, both of which made rolling the bike a pain in the arse.

We managed to set the truck up on a slope and set my trusty 2X6 in place and tried rolling the bike up, only getting about half way up the ramp. Right before our second try a guy walking his dog offered to help (sans the dog which was tied up momentarily). What is worth noting is that this has happened before. I’m not sure what the draw is about people loading a motorcycle onto a truck that makes people want to help out but this happened the last time I had to load up a bike. It warms the cockles I tell you. In any case the three of us with some help from gravity got it up on the truck.

When we arrived at the campus shop it was a whole other story. I asked in the office if any of the Moto teachers were in and barring that if I might be able to leave the bike in the shop, no on both accounts. I then went looking for Ron who runs the tool room where students can check out tools, and asked if I could borrow the metal ramp to take the bike off the truck.

See, wood ramps are fine for getting stuff up, because when they slip (and the always do) they slip in the direction of movement. In the case of putting a bike on a truck they slip a little up into the bed of the truck, to little or no harm. However, when removing a motorcycle they slip off the tailgate onto the ground leaving you with an 800lbs bike in midair which is sort of a pain in the, well body, to deal with. Hence the need for a metal ramp.

Ron was not only happy to loan it out, but he also Dave Miller up (the teacher for the class) and asked if it was okay if we placed the bike in the cage under his supervision. Dave was cool wid it (cuz Dave is cool like dat), and Ron helped get the bike off the truck and we wheeled it in to the cage to be worked on that Saturday.

I’d like to note that Ron might have actually saved me bike for me. I hadn’t thought about it till later but about three blocks away is a scrap yard. Ron mentioned that derelicts will come by and grab anything that rolls (or sort of rolls) and take it down to be scrapped. Leaving my bike on the street even for a couple of day might easily have meant it annihilation.

So in conclusion, this posting is dedicated to cool humans like Frank, Ron and the dude with a dog that are out to make everyone of our lives easier. Remember kids when you see some one that needs a hand, err on the side of helping, it’ll easy you heart on your death bed.

---

*Interestingly, the tread of the tires is in good condition but rubber, especially in sunlight, will just go bad over time even if it is not used. It gets 'mealy'. That should cost me another $100 or two. But skimping on tires is about as smart as skimping on replacing you break fluid. (Return above)

Step Two

Step two is getting a non running motorcycle to class which is turning into a pain in the ass. As some of you know, all I need is a truck, a old 2X6 and a flock of delinquents to move this thing. However you'd be surprised how hard that is.

So far I've placed and ad in craigslist asking for truck to help move the pick but I think I may need to offer more $. More when something actually gets done.

Huh, I can't figure it.

So as you might kin imagine, I have done exactly no work on this bike. The issue is, I have no idea what I’m doing. I thought I had a basic grasp on how to wrench, very basic as it turns out, way more basic than I thought. The problem being that electrical systems suck ass and not in the good way. If there is a single problem in the system, you have to go through and check everything. This is often facilitated by having some idea of how electrical systems work on motorcycles. I have no such knowledge. Everything I’ve done up to this point has been mechanical. I’m pretty sure it is a problem between the solenoid and the starter, since the solenoid clicks and the starter doesn’t. The issue I have is that while it is probably the starter and the manual suggests replacing rather than repairing it I don’t know that is the problem for certain, or actually with anything near a degree of confidence and I don’t want to be one of those Kragen mechanics, replacing everything in sight till the bike works. So what I’m doing is waiting with what passes for patience, for my next class to start in September. I’ll be back then.

Electrical Clickiness

So I bought a new battery. If you didn’t already know you can buy batteries wet or dry (though for most car batteries they come wet) which just means that either the acid has been already added to the battery (wet) or you have to add it yourself (dry). There are also maintenance free batteries which are sealed wet batteries meaning you can’t (and shouldn’t need too) get into the battery and add distilled water if the levels drop. Which is all neither here nor there.

I hooked the battery up to the interceptor and nothing happend. I took out my little test light and it seemed like the juice was making it to (what I learned later was) the solenoid. I have no idea what the solenoid does (I’ll look it up later) but I know juice was getting there. After a little tinkering and the checking of fuses the lights came on and all the standard electrical stuff seemed to be working. When I tried starting it, all I got was a lot of clicking from the solenoid. I’m not sure if it’s supposed to click like that but I took it as a good sign. Since I didn’t have a voltmeter I went and bought one, at which point I was locked out of my house so I was pretty much done when with working on the bike when I got back in. That and I need to read the manual for the voltmeter and the motorcycle to do any more debugging, I’m guessing something between the starter and the solenoid or the starter it self. I dunno. I have little expereince working on electrical systems...and everything else really.

One thing I did notice while taking off the fairing and body plastics was that they are beat to crap and that the bike looks really ugly without the fairing.

Other than that I also noticed little patches of rust everywhere, especially on the bolts. I think I’m going to replace most of them as I remove them. I’m sort of surprised at the level of rust, it seems to have hit some parts really hard (bolts) and other not as hard as I would have expected (exhaust pipes)

I need to get a digital camera so i can document some of this stuff for you, my internet fans.

PS You can thank the following smart ass remark for this last update.

It's great that you created an entire blog page devoted to bikes when all you have up for the last two weeks is the original :)

J